mangoflavouredblacktea asked: Hey there! I found your blog today and I have to say that I really really love it but I have a question,sorry if it's a stupid one,but how do you upscale the patterns?Thank you
Hello there!! It’s not a stupid one at all- in fact it’s a really common one. But, since it’s been awhile and I’ve misplaced all my usual links, I’ll just go ahead. :)
There are a few ways to do things. The most obvious is to take the image of the pattern, put it into something like photoshop or some image manipulation program-equivalent, and do adjustments from there. The simplest way, in my opinion, is to scale to either your bust or waist and then work from there making adjustments. If you’re really tech savvy, I’m sure there are ways to manipulate all the lines to your exact measurements using a computer.
The other main option is a bit more complicated and requires a bit of drafting from scratch. Using the pattern you want to use as your model, you can use books such as The American System of Dressmaking (found for free in several printings on the internet archive) to teach you basic drafting from that time period (there are also books from the 1880s that do the same thing but with less detailed directions but still the same gist), and then shape their patterns to match the design of the one you want (usually the differences lie in the skirts of jackets or actual skirts, and bodice/coat collars/sleeves. A lot of times the instructional books will have something very close to what you want so that it’s easier to accommodate). Of course, this option is a lot more prep work, but the fit should be perfect. :)
Or you can use a combination of the two- using photoshop/etc. to scale the pattern to either bust or waist and then use the drafting tips from the books to physically adjust the pattern to match your size. :)
While this probably wasn’t the answer you were hoping for, they should give you good results. I also highly recommend printing out the image of the pattern as-is and trying them out as paper dolls first, if you think the shape of a pattern is too general (unfortunately a few patterns are not true patterns but illustrations of the actual pattern). That way you can get a feel for how they’re meant to fit and also see what you might need to fix if any lines have been exaggerated or don’t seem to match in scale to the other pieces (I ran into that problem once).
Thanks so much again for your question, and I hope that was helpful. :)
As always, if anyone in the community has any advice and/or tips as well, please reply to this post with them!! Especially if you’ve used any of the patterns here before.
Hello~ For scanning the rulers, sorry if you thought of this already, but would it be possible to trace the shapes of the rulers onto a big piece of paper and scanning that instead? looking forward to the Edwardian patterns!
Ahhhhhhh!!! That’s a stellar idea!!! Thanks SO much for bringing this idea to me! When I’m finally able to get my hands on it, I’ll do just that as best I can. The ruler may be awhile yet (I’m so sorry), but that sounds like a great alternative. Thanks again!!
edit to everyone: My message ping hasn’t been working and it seems I’ve got a tiny backlog- here are my replies!! Thanks for all the messages!!
I know, I know— very, very sick of text updates. I’m really sorry about that.
Things will almost certainly resume as the weather gets warmer. It’s just really busy out here right now!
In other news, if you were one of the lucky winners of a cache of pre-1910 patterns just sold on ebay, please consider scanning them for submission! :D
I was able to snag two out of the five I was aiming for, so as soon as I get those, I will be trying very hard to find *some* way of getting them out to everybody here. One is a wonderfully tailored bodice from about 1901-1902 with some great poet sleeves, and the other is a very classic edwardian lawn/tea bodice designed for lace insertion that dates to about 1904-1905. Please look forward to it!
Updates on the ruler: Apparently the thing is SO massive that it cannot be scanned properly without scratching the glass of the scanner or damaging equipment in general. It would seem that some sort of very high res overhead photograph might have to suffice instead. Even so, this ruler seems to be identical to the one used in later issues of ‘The American System of Dressmaking’, so hurrah for that!
If anyone has any tips, tricks, or advice for scanning patterns (or huge metal slabs of rulers), please drop me a note in my inbox or reply to this post! SUBMISSIONS are still wide open, so if you’d like to submit a pattern directly (while I appreciate the book links, I won’t be able to get to them until later), so long as it fits all the criteria of this blog (found on the submissions page), it will probably be posted here instantly. :)
Thanks again to everyone, and see you with tons of stuff soon!! :D
Hello, everyone! I hope your new year has been going well so far. Again, apologies for the lack of updates- I’ve been travelling quite a bit and my computer was broken for awhile, etc. Thing have been crazy.
However! I have JUST acquired a dressmaking ruler from 1915 that appears to be virtually identical to the one used in our beloved “American System of Dressmaking" (even though it was made by a different company) and soon I’ll be scanning it and uploading it true to size so that those who wish to try and make their own antique dressmaking square can do so. :) It also contains many curves- again, it is virtually identical to the one in the ‘American System of Dressmaking’ book if you’d like to take a peek.
Although it IS 1915, one assumes that it should still be able to make previous decades of clothing (just mind your curve shapes is probably the only note).
Please look forward to it!! :)
BUCKLE IN FOR SOME LEARNING
There are many variations in the ‘basic’ bodice style, but then again, that’s why it’s just a basic. You can make a yokedbodice, a shirred bodice, a fan-front a la Jane Eyre, a suplice bodice, a jacket with lapels, or a basque bodice that goes out more over the hips. So! Many! Possibilities!
Point of interest: Pagodas were on their way out in the Civil War, but still used. Also there are SO MANY different kinds of sleeves. Younger ladies could wear short, puffed sleeves, and almost all ballgowns had them as well (but that’s a whole other tutorial.)
congratz you can now do the 1860s day dress thing
stevvie d approves
I know we’re in a bit of a lull at the moment here at RHP (my laptop is suffering from severe amnesia at the moment- please forgive it! It’s going to the doctor soon….), but Privatepenne, American Civil War Era costumer extraordinaire (amongst other eras!) and war-era political enthusiast wrote up this great mini guide on civil war-era dresses that I thought some of you might find useful! Whether just as a nice reference or refresher, or whether you draft your patterns from scratch, I thought it might do someone some good. :)
lunostar asked: Could you keep an eye out for a shirt pattern that needs cufflinks? I inherited a bunch of them but have no shirts that need them!
Hey there!! I sure will!! We DO have some already if you’d like to take a look! :)
Just a reminder about the Directory for those who missed it or have forgotten! It’s still not complete so it doesn’t have an official link yet (consider it in beta), but please feel free to take advantage of it till it’s fully operational. :)
The page had to be built from the ground up and have the blog theme totally reworked, so if anyone finds any formatting problems with the text or the banners at the top and bottom don’t look right on your browser/computer on that page, please let me know and I’ll do my best to work out the kinks! :)
I found this straggler in my inbox. Patent 1921, McCall dress. Thanks to everyone who has ever sent in submissions!!
texmarie asked: I work in the Smithsonian's costume library, and I'm sad to report that the magazine doesn't have sewing patterns like the ones you've been posting. They're like fashion plates with enlargements of border designs/ embroidery motifs. However, their pre-1900 Godey's and Harper's still have some of the fold-out tissue patterns in them if someone in the area wants to make a research appointment to scan them.
WOW, someone from the Smithsonian!! Thanks for taking the time out to let me/us know!! I was vaguely worried that it might’ve been *only* cloth/embroidery patterns but I held out *some* hope. Thanks so much for helping check that one off the list. :)
Gahh, I really wish I was in the DC area to do something like that….however, if it’s alright, I’ll publish this so others, if they desire, might take advantage of that if they can! :D
Thanks so much again!!!